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The Sartorialist


Tuesday, July 31, 2007

Giorgio Armani, Milan

So this photo has finally run in Wallpaper magazine so I can finally share it with you.

Back in April I was in Milan shooting the Salone for Wallpaper.
It was Saturday, the last day, and the fair was slowing down so I took a lazy walk around the Brera.
I was on Via Borgonuovo when I looked up and saw Armani walking down the street.
Actually, I saw Armani's giant bodyguard first but Armani was about four steps in front of him.
Anyway, I stopped Armani and began to ask him, and quickly began asking the bodyguard (that guy moves quick) if I could take his photo.
He asked for a business card ,which I didn't have on me, so he looked me over and agreed to let me take his picture.

Armani still looked a little hesitant but I have seen him in action enough backstage at his shows that I know he likes to be shot against a dark backdrop to highlight his white hair.

He began to take his one of his trademark poses but I motioned that we should move off the street and in front of a nearby building with a dark background. I motioned to his hair and said something like "bene constrasto" (not to be confused with "bene castrato"). This instantly won a few big points with him and he was very patient while I got a couple of shots.

Funny thing, one of the reasons Armani has built such an incredible empire is he is very careful with every aspect of his image. For example, when you take a photo of Armani he will not look up at the camera until he has set his pose and checked every element of his look. You cannot take a picture of him until he is ready.
As a photographer this is a pain but it is a perfect example of how he continues to worry about every little aspect - I have tremendous respect for that. The guy is in his 70's and is still sweating all the little details.

INTRODUCING - The SartoriaList Women's

I am happy to begin The SartoriaList Women's
Same concept as the Men's SartoriaList plus two additional services.
As with the men's list I will try to get a good mix of ladies from varied income levels.
I am currently efforting responses from women in New York, Milan, Paris, London and Stockholm (Berlin?).
I will be updating the SartoriaList as I receive answers but quite a few will be going up in the next two weeks.

Of course, I had to start with a few of the coolest women I know.


Hair salon
Romain Color - 37 rue Rousselet paris 7eme

Styl'up - 5 rue pasquier paris 8eme

Dry cleaner:
Delaporte Teinturerie - 62 rue Francois I paris 8eme

Shoe repair
Pulin bottier - 5 rue chauveau Lagarde paris 8eme

Nail Salon
Sothys institut de beaute - 128 rue du faubourg saint honore paris 8eme

Body Treatment
L appartement 217 - 217 rue saint honore paris 1er


Hair Salon:
Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet paris 8eme

Styl'up - 5 rue pasquier paris 8eme

Dry cleaner:
Delaporte Teinturerie - 62 rue Francois I paris 8eme

Shoe repair
Cordonnerie Vaneau - 44 rue vaneau paris 7eme

Nail salon and body treatment
Institut Revlon - 19 rue Bassano paris 16eme


Hair Salon: ALAIN COIFFURE 184 rue de grenelle 7emer
cute little place, where the clientele are like your grandparents, and walking in the door is like stepping back into the 1950's. the ladies have regular appointments to get themselves coiffured and to catch up on the quartier gossip. i go there not really for the haircut (as my hair is never in more need than a trim), but so soak up a little of the old life...

Tailor or Alterations: Being a designer i do it myself.

Dry Cleaner: PRESSING MALAR 27 rue malar 7eme

Shoe Repair: CHAUSSURE ROLAND 12 rue malar 7eme
Gorgeous little old man, owns and runs the place all by himself, and every morning i pass him on the street on the way back from the boulangerie, smile and say "bonjour".

Nail Salon: NOCIBÉ 96-98 rue st Dominique 7eme
A quiet little old place that also gives the most fantastic relaxing body massgaes.

Body treatment: CORPORO SANO 15 bis rue Amelie 7eme
Great eyelash tints.

Monday, July 30, 2007

Lino in GQ plus Out-Take

This is one of my all-time favorite shots of Lino.
It appeared in July GQ but I wanted to make sure it had a home here also.
To me it is the very essence of Milanese style.

I loved this shot but I guess the page just isn't big enough for two Lini (the plural of Lino)

On the Street......Soho, New York

New on The SartoriaList! Reza Raein

As I promised recently, I will be making new additions to The SartoriaList over the next few weeks
Our good friend Reza has sent over his list of resources not only for New York but also Naples!
Reza has also informed me that he has lost 15 pounds and we may soon need to change his moniker to TBM!!

Thanks Reza and the first one to Naples wins!!

from Reza email:
BARBER New York: Peter at Delta Hairstylists
BARBER Naples, Italy: Gianni at Barbieria, via Crispi 13-15
(In my case, given the little hair I have, the barber is really more of a surgeon)

TAILOR/ALTERATIONS suits, Naples, Italy: Mr. Pasquale Sabino at PrimoPiano Italia, Piazza dei Martiri, Naples
TAILOR/ALTERATIONS shirts, Naples, Italy: Mr. Salvatore Piccolo, via Strettola S. Anna alle Paudi 54, Naples

DRYCLEANER: Sophia Careplus 150 E 79th St NYC ( hand pressing of shirts + general dry cleaning)
DRYCLEANER: Perry Process 427 E 74th NYC (suits)

SHOE REPAIR Naples, Italy: Paolo Scafora Custom Shoemaker TEL +39-333-239-6239
SHOE REPAIR NYC: The Empire, 991 Lexington Avenue, NYC (ask for Roman)

This information should be permanently updated on The SartoriaList by the end of this week.

Ladies don't despair the women's SartoriaList in full process. Just wait till you see who I post tomorrow!

Sunday, July 29, 2007

On the Street.......Summer Cardigan, Soho

No matter how hot it is outside, it is always colder in your office.

On the Street.......Chopped Leather Pants, Paris

Friday, July 27, 2007

Mr. Stefano Tonchi at YSL

Haidee Findlay-Levin, Stylist, Manhattan

Sartorialist Lesson #1A- Wear Your Pants On Your Waist NOT Your Hips

The late Mr. Ferre shows how a larger man can wear his pants at his waist WITH a vest and create a very slimming effect.

Again, the "rules" don't work for everyone but they can usually be slightly tweaked and work more often than not.

If you are taller, check out old photos of Gary Cooper, Jimmy Stewart or Gregory Peck - all tall and still wearing their pants at their waist (with very successful results)

Thursday, July 26, 2007

Sartorialist Lesson #1 - Wear Your Pants On Your Waist NOT Your Hips

The easiest and least expensive way for ANY gentleman to look much better in his clothes is to pull those pants up.

Both of these gentleman look more refined ,even while dressed in just shirt sleeves, because they are wearing their pants at their waist and not at their hips.

I think it also visually drops about ten pounds on a guy because your shirt doesn't blouse-out and hang over your belt as badly.

On the Street.......Yohji Femme, Soho

Wednesday, July 25, 2007

At Valentino....Leopard Tie, Milan

On the Street.......Bold is Beautiful, Harlem

On the Street.......Sunday's Best 3, Harlem

On the Street.......Go-To Summer Dress, Milan

Tuesday, July 24, 2007

On the Street.......Spring Street, Soho

On the Street.......Sunday's Best 2, Harlem

UPDATE Congrats to Michael Bastian -New Designer for Bill Blass

For my August GQ page I talk about the particular to Manhattan look of guys running out of the office on "early Friday's" in rigs that are somewhere between Manhattan and the Hamptons a.k.a Manhattan Beach.

Monday, July 23, 2007

Live and Let Loose p2

I know I'm fickle but all it takes is seeing a guy like this (looking really cool in in a loose silhouette) to reconsider my my love of the slim Italian classics.
You have to admit that this guy looks pretty cool and comfortable.

On the Street.......Summer Knits, Greenwich Village

On the Street.......Sunday's Best, Harlem

On the Street.......Bleecker St., West Village

Simple Summer black dress taken to a whole new level with the artfully layered necklaces

On the Street.......Shades of Denim, Paris

Sunday, July 22, 2007

Some Kinda Blue

At Marni, p2

Saturday, July 21, 2007

Live and Let Loose

At Marni

Friday, July 20, 2007

Fabrizio in Paris

As we saw yesterday - another example of rolled cuffs and dress shoes.

I like this even more because they are dress pants.

On the Street.......Grey Dress, Paris

Patrick De Muynck, Flanders Fashion Institute

Again, a look full of retro-ish elements that are done in a completely modern way.

An Idea For My Ipod Earbuds!

Thursday, July 19, 2007

Jewels of Summer, Part 2

A Man of Undeterminable Origin, Florence

Jewels of Summer, Part 1

Rich, deeply hued jewel tones are a staple of the Fall wardrobe but maybe the boldness of color makes them equally interesting for summer.
Part 2, tonight around 6pm

Considering: Square-hemmed Shirts

Square-hemmed shirts....uhmm

I like the idea of square-hemmed shirts.

If you are going to wear your shirt untucked they offer a more finished look than normal curved shirt hems, plus they also feel a little more sporty.

Unfortunately, I think they can make you look a bit....well...square.

Also, I usually see them on short-sleeve shirts and I'm just not a short sleeve shirt kinda guy.

However I like the way this gentleman is wearing the square-hem shirt

First of all, it is a long sleeve shirt!

Secondly, it is cut slim enough but I think a little extra length in the back (like a tennis-tails polo) could help a lot.

This also inspires me to look into those cool Cuban shirts with the squared hem and pleated fronts but the originals seem to fit me a bit funny and the fashion versions are usually a bit over-the-top.

I might have to experiment and take one of my cotton shirts ( not linen because it would curl too much at the hem) to a tailor and maybe they could alter the shirt to a square hem.

Anyone out there have particular success with square-hemmed shirts?

At Pitti Uomo......The Pink Sportcoat

UPDATE - Considering Ribbon Belts

Variation on a theme

I really love ribbon belts.
I think they add a nice touch of color to a casual summer look and replace the element of color you might lose not wearing a tie.
The gentlemen below do a great job working them into their looks in a way that is not too obvious and that harmonize well with the other colors and patterns they're wearing.

Personally ,in the summer, I wear a lot of solid colors - navy, white, khaki, grey - so I am always looking for accessories that can add a little color to my look but ,again, in a subtle way. Remember those color bracelets Michael Macko was wearing?

Unfortunately for me I have always found ribbon belts too wide for my size.
That is, until I found this belt at Brooks Brothers which is a typical ribbon (or actually woven tie silk) belt BUT it is unlined so I can scrunch it down a bit to make it much thinner.

It takes the effect of Fred Astaire and his tie-as-belt look.
I will probably remove the d-rings and tie the belt kinda like Astaire but I think it will read more sporty and not too precious.
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