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The Sartorialist


Friday, November 30, 2007

On the Street.....Greys & Blues, New York

Problem solved!

Perfect Lenght For A Dark Blue Denim Jeans , imho

I can understand black jeans being longer and with more crumpled break but I like my dark blue denim to be hemmed more like my pants. These jeans also , to my eye, have just the right amount of taper to the leg, they are slim and not skin tight.

Wandering The Alleys of Florence: Cobbler's Custom Shoe Shop

Interior of Small Woodworking Shop, Florence

Thursday, November 29, 2007

On the Street.....Colors of Fall, New York

Pitti Prep - The Photos I Have Pulled From The Archive

I love the idea of casual tennis shoes with a silk scarf at the neck

Refined Suede boots

The shot that made me want white jeans for Winter

Print Scarf with a jacket

Wednesday, November 28, 2007

Sisters of a Style, NYC

The only thing better than shooting a person "one year later" is shooting sisters six months apart.

Of course I have to get them together for a shot soon.

Pitti Prep - Short Suede Jacket

I know it is not "fashionable" to look back to last year for ideas but right now I am preparing my wardrobe for Pitti Uomo in January and the first place I go is my archives.

These suede jackets all over Italy. I love the depth of color and lightweight nature.

I bought one in navy at Doriani. The weight is perfect and when you add a knit underneath it works for me even into the 30's.

I just had an idea as I typed that. I am going to try and do a few self-portraits with clothes I have bought and the images that inspired the purchase.

I'm not promising but i will try.

if i am not smiling it is becasue I had just realized what I had gotten myself into - crap! my fingers are typing checks my lens can't cash!

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

On the Street.....Rainy Day, New York

On the Street.....The Elegant Biker, Paris

I love the umbrella over the handle bars

Monday, November 26, 2007

Vintage Monday....The Antique DJ, Chelsea

I asked this young gentleman , Michael Haar, what movies he watches for inspiration.

"The Marxs Brothers" he says.

I'm off to B&N to buy a new DVD box set

Vintage Monday....Pale Blue Coat, Soho

I love that the trim was all navy and not black.

Sunday, November 25, 2007

The Awful Truth - Cary Grant's Most Stylish Movie (even though he doesn't wear the best "look" in the movie)

The other day I really watched "The Awful Truth" for the first time. I have seen it before but I was always distracted by something either in the movie itself (the clothes) or in the house (kids).

"The Awful Truth" has to be Cary Grant at his very best. In this movie Cary is soo funny, so physical, so charming and so stylish. When you watch the whole movie and everything that leads up to that famous scene when he falls backward off his chair, well, it is genius and ,to me, the very essence of the Grant persona.

Surprisingly, even though this is Grant's most stylish feature (just beating "To Catch A Thief") the actual best look of the movie goes to the topcoat and tux Ralph Bellamy is wearing in his introductory scene (below).

Bellamy's topcoat is killer - I love the bit of white shirt cuff showing at the sleeve.
This is not because his arm is bent because it also hangs that way when his arm is straight.

When was the last time you saw some shirt cuff under a coat sleeve?
I see it rarely if at all.

Also notice the white pocket square in Bellamy's coat and compare it to Grant ,below, in a similar look from the same movie.
The pocket square and slimmer fitting coat gives Bellamy's look even more refinement than Grant's. (in this case I do think you see cuff on Grant because his arm is bent)
In comparison I think Grant's coat looks a bit boxy and drab.

I do love that they are both wearing a white scarf. Do you think it was cashmere or silk?
I also think it is a toss up on the hair. The strong side-part is making a major comeback (and it is not due to that Mad Men series)

Bellamy also played a similar character in another extremely stylish Astaire movie called "Carefree"
I never realized that one of the old guys from Trading Places was such a fashion plate in his day.

A Black Leather Jacket (for him and her) That Won't Make You Look Like Fonzie, Milan

On the Street.....A Real Jacket For Women, Milan

I long to see more women on the street wearing real jackets not just those high-hip, shrunken jackets that overflow the racks of Banana Republic and Ann Taylor.

I also long to see more women wearing their jacket sleeves at the right length. This young model has a great sleeve length which would be more obvious if she were wearing a long-sleeve blouse underneath. This is a simple alteration and you don't need to be a model for it to look great.

Friday, November 23, 2007

A Less Narrow View

Often I read comments on this blog like "Shouldn't clothing enhance a woman's form and femininity? " or something of that nature.

I think this is a very narrow view of what clothing should/could do for a person.

Clothing only needs to keep you protected from the elements, past that what you do with them is your option.

This young lady is a great example of self-expression and intellectual dressing.

Nothing she is wearing really speaks to WHAT she is physically ( fat or skinny, tall or short, male or female) but her look speaks volumes about WHO she is mentally.

Is this fashion? I don't know but it surely is an extremely evolved version of self-expression.


Wednesday, November 21, 2007

From December GQ - Luca Rubinacci

I have been dying for the Dec. GQ to drop so i could put these shots up on my blog.
I love all of Luca's quirky little details but they never look too overdone.

The Coolest - Carla Sozzani of 10 Corso Como

Tuesday, November 20, 2007

I Hate His Vest.....(I say green-eyed with envy)

Vest are the one item that I (and most men) simply cannot buy at retail.

They are always too long on me and cannot (or rarely) be shortened the same way a carefully chosen sportcoat can be shortened an inch.

If you really look at most guys that are wearing a vest often the vest is just too long and bunches up or too short and looks like a flac-jacket.

My first truly bespoke suit I buy will be a vested suit. More than just looking so elegant it makes the whole shirt-meets-pant area look much smoother than without the vest. Like I mentioned in a recent post, this is why I like to wear a cardigan or double-zip sweater under a jacket.

Also I bet if you lined up 5 guys of different sizes and put them all in a CORRECTLY-fitted vest and pants they would all look 5 to 10 pounds thinner.

I think men think of a vest like a modern corset but if they calculated how much more beer they could drink and then just pull in the gut with a vest...well, maybe Corona needs to look into a product extension.

Anyway, Carlo again looks superb and endlessly elegant.

"Sportcoat" or "Sportscoat"....little help?

On the Street.....Forget The Bag For A Second....

I can't stop looking at the dress, tights, flats combo.

I bet she is carrying her "real shoes" in the red bag. This is a pretty chic way to have your heels and still make it around town.

Weather or Not?

Yesterday several people commented that the young lady in the shorts looked sooo cold and underdressed for the weather.

The truth is, it was one of those curious days when it was neither too cool or too warm.

My point yesterday was that there seems to be a sweet spot temperature-wise when a person can pretty much dress anyway they want.

For me, that temperature is 60-65F.

I love that range because people really have to get creative with their look, especially if they will be running around all day with no chance to change or add/drop a layer.
I love seeing a young lady grabbing the last chance to wear her favorite Marni summer dress under her newly purchased favorite Fall knit or ,as I was simply suggesting yesterday, a Fall look that still shows some leg.

For me, it might be shorts with a cashmere cardigan.

I usually disagree with people that say "if it is cold enough for a ____ then it is too cold for a ______"

All the images below were taken at the Miu Miu show.
In the top image I see a women in a fur and in the background a women wearing very open sandals. In other images i see some people wearing coats and some are wearing tee shirts.

So what is that "anything goes" temperature for you?
and do you have a favorite combo that you like to break out when it hits the sweet spot?

Monday, November 19, 2007

Search For A Structured Coat To Go With Jeans

When it gets cold outside I seem to always fall back on my trusty Navy nylon parka. I love this ehtcoat but it makes me feel even more round than I already am (and remember I am consistently on the lookout for additional lank). That is why I really like (and have to remember to buy) a structured, more tailored coat like this that still looks good and not to dressy with jeans. I think the reason this looks so good with jeans is the sturdy feel of the wool and the brown leather buttons - black or matching buttons would make it a bit too refined for jeans, imho.

Legs for Fall

In the outfit below Louise was wearing a camel cardie under the white coat and red dress - if you notice the cardie matched her shoes. I didn't notice when I took the photo that she had put her hand in her coat and covered that great slice of camel color that added a perfect level of color depth to the look. My bad

The post with Chloe S made me think about legs for Fall.

The weather here in NYC has fluctuated so much lately which has made dressing an adventure.

Last week almost entirely in the 40's and this week it will be in the high 50's to low 60's. Just as the tights were coming out it seems we will still have another week perfectly made for cozy clothes and bare-ish legs.

Here are a few of the shots I took in Paris which are a great example of Fall legs.

I would think that much south of Washinton DC and West/Southwest of Denver that this is about as covered up as you ever need to get in the Winter. Yes?
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