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On the Street...The Shorter Shape Of Outerwear

 
 
 
 
 















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Wednesday, January 30, 2008

On the Street...The Shorter Shape Of Outerwear


Comments on "On the Street...The Shorter Shape Of Outerwear"

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (8:05 AM) : 

Great Belt on photo #2

 

Blogger odilean said ... (8:11 AM) : 

The hound stooth and checker combined on the second man, with delicate lines of red and bold navy and gold peeking through is perfect. It is a nice way to mix patterns for those of us opposed to the Etro look. These men are so stylish that they are burning a hole through my computer screen.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (8:15 AM) : 

Like the upper one. He looks like a nice guy. The other one is ...

 

Anonymous Shatha said ... (8:21 AM) : 

Ahh..I love the trenchcoat look, but these look fabulous, especially since they were able to pull off such large pockets. I'm especially liking the bottom look - the detail on the jacket is fantastic, the scarf is thrown so sophisticatedly,and the belt just kicks ass. Nice.

 

Blogger SKINNIER NATION said ... (8:36 AM) : 

I love the grey ones! What an attitude, kudos!

 

Blogger Benedict said ... (8:36 AM) : 

Not sure about this trend... it's a little bulky for my liking, although the outfits are very well put together.

 

Blogger Alice Olive said ... (8:48 AM) : 

Ruggedly fabulous! Love the bulky layering.

 

Anonymous David said ... (8:49 AM) : 

I like the mix of patterns in the second one and the scarf, but the contrast of a very bulky jacket with oversized side-pockets makes his legs look too skinny and out of proportion. It's top heavy without balance.

The first guy's jacket is not so bulky and the cargo pants add balance. I think to pull it off you need wider pants and probably some pretty chunky boots or shoes.

 

Blogger momo said ... (9:01 AM) : 

Two seriously good-looking men! Too bad the windchill where I live will be -45 this morning--this look won't be possible on the street for another few months!

 

Blogger Butch said ... (9:16 AM) : 

Top: terrific layering.

Not sure that the wee jacket would work without the vest, but it's a desriable item, nonetheless....

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:24 AM) : 

why is an apparenly grown man wearing cargo pants? Am i the only one here who thinks men should dress like men and not junior-high kids emulating Hollywood slobs? As Marcello Mastorianni(who is curiously absent from all the reverential treatment given Cary Grant et al) said: "When the whole world is elegant, then I will dress like a bum."

 

Anonymous maedchen said ... (9:30 AM) : 

i like their jackets! they look somehow manly in a sophisticated way, reminds me of a pilot from the 1930es. how is this type of jacket called?

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:38 AM) : 

Sart, tell me those aren't cargo pants I see featured on these pages?? Never thought I'd see the day, but I suppose the focus was to be on the top part? Well, guy on top picture does not look good but bottom picture dude looks like the guy all women want, manly but still soft touches (scarf), and he is rocking that look big time-coat's fantastic.

Energie

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (9:57 AM) : 

Milano?????

 

Anonymous emma said ... (10:06 AM) : 

it wouldn't be the same without the moleskine in his left hand...!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:09 AM) : 

The second one is brilliant.

 

Anonymous bannäna said ... (10:10 AM) : 

…and a moleskine by his side…

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:10 AM) : 

Wow - both men look fabulous and rich rich rich. How to look both put together and sporty to the max!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:13 AM) : 

I have a soft spot in my heart for the 1980s, which these seem to echo. The difference here, I think, is better tailoring, more distinctive pockets and pleasing fabric. As good as these guys look, it's unclear whether they will stand the test of time as durably as more classic outerwear has.

 

Blogger tintin said ... (10:14 AM) : 

I'm partial to the 1st pic. The jacket echos the Ike Jacket worn by National Park Rangers and copied from the WWII Class A jacket made famous by Eisenhower.

The layering above the waist evokes a body armour look from Vietnam or Iraq.

Th jungle fatigue pants look authentic and hail from the late 60s to mid 70s. I pray he didn't blouse jungle boots.

 

Anonymous Ciaofrommilan said ... (10:18 AM) : 

hey: welcome back "Kalashnikov" Calascibetta, fashion guru of Corriere della Sera Style Magazine and top purveyor of sartorialist wonderment (sart aficionados should remember the "marlboro mickey mouse" yellow gloves stunt last winter)

as always, Alessandro is showing the way here. also: nice impersonation of the Zoolander "Blue Steel" look here. done in dark brown, of course, to go along with that brilliant scarf. bravo bravissimo!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:24 AM) : 

The last guy looks amazing!Absolutely perfect. Best men's fashion pic I've seen in ages.

The first on is a but blah.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:24 AM) : 

Looks like something out of a shop window. Too 'put together'.

Are they modeling for the photos?

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:28 AM) : 

I love the top shot. It's just beautifully composed.

 

Anonymous a. fanny said ... (10:47 AM) : 

Those are some big-ass pockets. I love going through pockets. I wonder what I'd find in there?

 

Anonymous bluejeanamy said ... (10:49 AM) : 

love a short winter coat with bulk. delish.

 

Blogger McTickle said ... (10:52 AM) : 

Real men don't wear skin tight pants. These guys are cool.

 

Blogger Mona said ... (11:26 AM) : 

i love them both, especially the one up top paired with the quilted vest. is that part of the coat or separate i wonder? just bought a coat with an attached vest inside...love it.

 

Blogger Thomas said ... (11:58 AM) : 

Yes, the pockets on the bottom coat are warming my cold, cynical heart, and carried off with such panache! Of course, the ubiquitous moleskine he is carrying helps to "complete" the look.

 

Blogger Phineas said ... (12:10 PM) : 

The detailing on the coat in the upper image is bliss.

And I love the rugged, casual aesthetic of the lower coat, paired with an otherwise sensibly slick ensemble. It's also interesting to note that the sharkskin runs more in the blue hues (which works wonderfully with the indigo sweater) but the jacket pulls out the browns of the scarf, creating harmony where, in my opinion, you ould otherwise have a rather sour note of dissonance.

 

Blogger Laguna Beach Trad said ... (12:26 PM) : 

Great photos, Sart. I like both men's jackets. Note the quilted jacket/vest and turtleneck sweater on the guy in the top photo. He looks cold. When I was at school, we called short jackets such as these 'bum-freezers' because they left one's bum exposed to the cold. I love the scarf on the gentleman in the bottom photo. Very nice.

 

Anonymous MayaS said ... (12:36 PM) : 

Wow, the second guy - great outfit (love that belt!) and a fabulous picture. He looks dangerous...in a good way. First one - great everything except the cargo pants.

 

Blogger AdamfromVA said ... (12:50 PM) : 

top photo: not feeling it
bottom photo: love it, chic and so grown up

 

Anonymous morty said ... (1:16 PM) : 

Yes,I have seen men in similar outfits,ok I guess.But I´m a little worried about the material seen lately- it´s depressing and not so nice.I suppose it is real stuff,but please send us something on which the eye can rest for a change.

 

Anonymous Kofi Anon said ... (1:18 PM) : 

For a shorter guy like me, I like it.

 

Blogger Austin said ... (1:19 PM) : 

i feel like the moleskine makes it all seem contrived,, but i just bought myself my first one for christmas, so maybe i'm overly aware. #2 made me kind of frown, but the pockets on his coat are so awesome it saves his whole one-photo-impression.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (1:29 PM) : 

While I enjoy both these outfits, they make me realize how much I like shoulders. "Don't it always seem to go/ that you don't know what you've got till it's gone."

 

OpenID LSDeeDee said ... (1:46 PM) : 

Two very sexy slightly older men. They look like tailored, real-life Indiana Jones'. Esp. the top man....he looks ready to jump in his bi-plane and save the world. I love this look - It reminds me of my Father, who used to dress exceptionally well.

 

Blogger Pam said ... (1:51 PM) : 

I love the first picture in particular. Great look!

 

Blogger miss cavendish said ... (1:57 PM) : 

The second photo is just gorgeous. From the glower to the belt buckle. And the tweed and wool in between.

 

Blogger miss cavendish said ... (1:58 PM) : 

Here's another style quirk: I do not like short jackets on men. They always look as if they need to be pulled down, to have a couple extra inches of fabric added.

 

Anonymous lis said ... (2:15 PM) : 

I love the first photo - the guy looks warm and rugged, the location is cool and elegant - it's a sexy mix.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (2:16 PM) : 

I love the bloke on the top's jacket and outfit. Very cool. If I saw him on the street in that get up, he would get a big smile and thumbs up from me.

 

Blogger jessieleigh said ... (2:18 PM) : 

That second gentleman is amazing. A little creepy, yes, but amazing. You know he wants you to think he rolled out of bed, slapped on his trousers and coat, grabbed his moleskine and ran out the door.

Loves it.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (2:22 PM) : 

(Second Photo) The belt and pleat in the pants is so damn James Dean. I love it.

 

Blogger Sofia said ... (2:24 PM) : 

The top one has the look I just crave in a man. Slicked back hair, a little gray, totally Masculine. Love the earth toned, layered look. Gloves to make it. The wet glimmery streets and angle of the camera is right on! Glad I found your blog from the Newsweek section today! I will be in NY next month and maybe I will wear something fabulous and walk the streets in hopes you are there taking more pics of real people. :)

 

Anonymous Lisa said ... (2:26 PM) : 

As many have said so far, The cargo pants are pretty bad. The brown jacket is a bit too short and although the vest does add some good features, it also adds unnecessary bulk to his appearance. He looks like he has no neck, although he's a much nicer looking model all in all than the man in gray. The brown jacket's pockets aren't so ridiculously oversized either. The material on the gray jacket is very nice (As it looks less like a Carhart's jacket) and the oversized collar adds an interesting shape. Not sure if I like the scarf too much...

 

Blogger Mandi said ... (2:29 PM) : 

I don't mind the cargo in the first one, I think it fits with his pilot jacket. Also I think his choice of color is excellent with his hair and skin tone...very flattering.

 

Anonymous Christina said ... (2:29 PM) : 

Love the second look. You'd expect the jacket to be paired with jeans since it has a more casual flair to it (due to the oversized pockets and short length). But pairing it with dress pants and then adding a well draped scarf and eye-catching belt, tranforms the look from casual to chic sophisticated. Though, he must've been a bit nervous having you take his picture cuz he seems a bit stern...

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (2:33 PM) : 

amazing. i love the sculptural turn in outerwear (i'm also thinking of that gorgeous older woman in the puffer coat).

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (2:46 PM) : 

bored with the outfits. LOVING the light/composition of the top shot though.

 

Blogger KT said ... (2:56 PM) : 

Both men are very handsome. In the 1st guy's defense, those aren't cargo pants; they are fishing pants. The pockets are for all the fishing paraphernalia... the material dries quickly and does a nice job blocking the wind.

 

Anonymous spitshine said ... (3:02 PM) : 

c'est sweet. comfortable and stylish not just either or. cargo pants the pants one hates to love.

 

Anonymous Laura said ... (4:00 PM) : 

i really don't like these kind of jackets for men....the 2nd one is better than the 1st but i'm still not sure....it's the shape maybe.

 

Blogger Hinna Shot Ya said ... (4:45 PM) : 

the belt is too wonderful. and the oversized jacked contrasts beautifully with it...*sigh*

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (4:56 PM) : 

The man in the upper photo looks quite a bit like Al Gore, in my mind

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:08 PM) : 

very 1920's pilot..

add some goggles around the neck and #1 could take me for a ride..

r

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (5:21 PM) : 

I don't hate it, but the first look seems a little costume-y to me. Straight off a movie set - and not in a good way. Although the man is very attractive. Love the belt on #2!

 

Blogger Joyful said ... (5:52 PM) : 

Very dashing indeed.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (6:09 PM) : 

cargo pants??? give me a break! no chance they'll get fashionable anymore. i like the coat, though. is it barbour?

 

Anonymous kat said ... (6:16 PM) : 

I love them both, similar jacket structure but both rocking it in very different ways. More men should wear short jackets, you may surprise yourself! I love the 1930s aviator, right down to his fabulous hair, which i think really finishes his look. The second man is dark & chic and beautifully put together.

And I think the cargo pants are working for the aviator, out of curiosity, without changing the top half what would the cavillers have him wear instead of cargos?

 

Blogger simplyolive said ... (7:12 PM) : 

#2 is fantastic!!
the color, the details...
...& the moleskin tops it all off.

 

Anonymous m- said ... (7:30 PM) : 

mctickle, "real men" don't notice the fit of other men's pants...and also, "real men" don't read blogs with the word sartorial in it...and also, "real men" don't put pictures of themselves on someone else's blog...LOL "real men" youre a joke mctickle.

 

Anonymous Sarah said ... (9:04 PM) : 

Who is that man in the second picture? He is an absolutely stunning man. I would love to know what he does for a living.

 

Blogger Anna said ... (9:42 PM) : 

He is so carrying a moleskine!!

 

Blogger Jonathan said ... (10:04 PM) : 

I like what Tintin said above about the military influences; the quilted jacket on the top pic looks like a US Army field jacket liner, but in brown, not green.

But to really carry that look, you'd need a jacket with a mandarin collar and big pockets on the top, not on the bottom.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:50 PM) : 

I really like the first jacket, you don't usually see men like him in cropped jackets, and he looks so handsome!

 

Blogger claire said ... (10:52 PM) : 

Love the way the second outfit was put together, although his expression is scary. Tough guy? Double points if that notebook he's holding is a mole skin!

 

Blogger Lieutenant Glahn said ... (11:44 PM) : 

The first gentleman: Great face. Perfect hair. Nice scarf and turtleneck sweater. Oops! I forgot to mow the cobblestones. Grab my surplus fatigues from the hamper, throw on my Carhartt quilted jacket liner and J.Peterman Melton Utility Bolero™ and out the door.

The second one looks like it was intentionally shot for a GQ Regrets column.

 

Blogger underneath said ... (3:19 AM) : 

Two utmost handsome men - Sartorial to the BONE!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (7:48 AM) : 

Its good to see you gaain Ralph! Always styling! The guy at the bottom....what is that!!! YIKES!!!

 

Anonymous MayaS said ... (12:23 PM) : 

Uh, moleskine-shmoleskine... I bought a daily planner this yesr, and while the paper and cover are nice, the design is not that great....not going to buy again, despite Hemingway and all that buzz...

 

Blogger doanything24 said ... (1:02 PM) : 

y'know I really love both of these ensembles. The layering is just right and colors nice. The top pic looks like 1940's bomber-- put together beautifully. Love the tie with it!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (1:38 PM) : 

Both-guys rock, but second guy is really awesome! love the moleskin on his hand gives him the sensitive touch.

 

Blogger Paul Pincus said ... (2:38 PM) : 

The gentleman in the second photograph is the coolest. A total maverick!

 

Blogger sirrhw said ... (9:24 PM) : 

I would have titled bottom photo "sophisticated badass", love the look.

 

Blogger Wesley Darling said ... (9:33 PM) : 

Ralph always looks fabulous, doesn't he?

Love that filson.

-KR

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (2:53 PM) : 

for all of you dissing his cargo pants, he designed for domenico vacca, i'm sure he knows something about fashion.

both photos are fabulous, sart.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:25 PM) : 

Ralph looks sharp per usual (is that italian?)... funny to see him out of the summer white /khaki getup, but I suppose the fatigue greens add a louder shade to his palette. Like how the navyish gloves punctuate the arms there.

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:26 PM) : 

Ralph looks great per usual (is that italian?)... funny to see him out of the summer white /khaki getup, but I suppose the fatigue greens add a louder shade to his palette. Like how the navyish gloves punctuate the arms there.

 

Anonymous Keith said ... (8:35 PM) : 

Who the heck are these guys wearing?

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:52 AM) : 

The guy in the second photo looks fantastic. I have exactly the same Moncler jacket (though maybe a size more resembling my body, as his seems more large for some reason), yet I hadn't imagined wearing it like that.

Great inspiration.

 

Blogger Yioryos said ... (4:37 AM) : 

Second photo is wow.. great! perfect!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (10:07 AM) : 

Wow. What a cool man (second pic)!
(if I only had that kind of dad ;))

He really knows how to do it - colours and everything!

 

Anonymous Anonymous said ... (3:04 AM) : 

i think pilots from the sixties onward look like jackasses, but wartime aviators make me swoon. once again- fatal combination; seriousness and tweed. second only to the other fatal combo; ernestness and tweed.

 

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