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The Sartorialist


Thursday, May 28, 2009

On the Street......Dots or Spots, Milano

On the Street......Write On!, Milano

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Jim Thompson, Designer of Three Over One, Sydney

Describe the Three Over One brand…
Three Over One is influenced by a British working man’s wardrobe from the 1930’s and 40’s and vintage American sportswear. The collection has a rugged and relaxed elegance with an appreciation of the attitudes, style, quality and workmanship of the past. 

Why pleated denim?
I like to wear high waisted pleated pants as I guess I am somewhat nostalgic in my style, looking back to a time when I feel that men dressed more elegantly.

From a design standpoint, I incorporated these pants into my line because I wanted to revisit classic work wear styles (the pleat front detailing and the relaxed high waisted silhouette came from a 1930’s vintage naval pant) but execute them in a more modern way (hence using a lightweight denim fabric).

Describe "Sydney Style"
Relaxed, laid back and never taking itself too seriously.

The OZ style currently has what I would best describe as an “80’s electro in the sun, mixed with gothic rock” vibe. This look includes the skinny jeans in very distressed rip and repair finishes, oversized tees with bold simple graphics, short vintage board shorts and of course the obligatory Havaianas thongs with injections of strong bright color throughout.

Is there an Australian Style Icon?
For me it has to be Errol Flynn.

What inspires design in Sydney?
Sydney style is heavily influenced by the warm climate and living by the ocean. This results in a more relaxed, colorful and laidback style, that has an emphasis on casual wear.

What country has the biggest design influence on Australian designers?
I feel a strong influence from the US, in both culture and design.

Are there any American brands you are into?
I really like what Adam Kimmel, Band of Outsiders and Engineered Garments are doing. The mixture of heritage styling and modern design really appeals to me.

On the Street......The Dancer, Melbourne

I think he is so unusually beautiful. The posture, the masculine neck, the small almost elfin ears, and the way his clothes hang on him.

I'm often asked in interviews what I look for when I'm out shooting. I reply that I just try to keep my mind open so I can see what I'm not expecting. This is a perfect example. I would never say I was looking for this type of shot, but when I see it I can't pass it up.

On the Street......Duotone, Milan

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Fast Company's 100 "Most Creative People in Business"

Fast Company released their list of the 100 Most Creative People in Business, and I made it on the list!!!! (barely)

When we got the magazine and started flipping through it to find where I was on the list of 100, it was like a scene in a sitcom. Tracy, my very capable assistant, started flipping through the list. I wasn't surprised not to be in the Top 10, or even the Top 30, but we breezed through the 40's and 50's, sailed through the 60's and flew past the 70's.

In a moment right out of the Honeymooner's, I finally hit Tracy (my Norton) in the arm and yelled, "Come on!! Start from the back!!"

YES! #98!!!

I'm still very pleased.

Actually, I've been reading Fast Company for a long time, and it is a real honor to be in a list with so many visionaries. One of my earliest posts was on an article FC did with Jonathan Ive (who is at the top of this year's list) on the emotional response to design. The article is still available online and I still think it's one of the best design articles I have read.

On the Street......Shark Pants, Sydney

I saw this guy standing in a crowd of people after a fashion show. He looked perfectly normal until the crowd parted just enough to reveal his crazy shark pants. I always love an unexpected touch of humor.

On the Street...... Madame Chic, Paris

Friday, May 22, 2009

On the Street......Just Off Vittorio St., Sao Paulo

Thursday, May 21, 2009

On the Street......Clinton St., Lower East Side

On the Street......Vintage in Black & Red, Sydney

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Style Profile...Maria Kerner, Moscow

Maria Kerner

Accessories Buyer

Describe your personal style?
My personal style is all about femininity, elegance, and tenderness while still being very professional.

I build my daily look around?
My feelings; it really depends on my own perception of myself before I get dressed in the morning.

Personal style quirk?
Monochromatic outfits. You can wear one color range, but find beautiful combinations of the same tone. Colors are like a mirror for me, they correspond exactly to my inside feelings. Beige and pastel colors give me an incredible feeling of soft, light emotions. I had a violet period as well, that gave me a feeling of something mysterious - I would mix it with grey to make it more wearable. Any more than three colors and the outfit is just not me.

Style icon?
Sophia Loren

Favorite brands?
Bottega Veneta, Lanvin, YSL, Giambattista Valli

Favorite designers?
Cristobal Balenciaga, old Dior

I feel best wearing?
Silk dresses, fur and diamonds.

Never caught wearing?
The color red. I try to never say never, but I really don't wear red. I don't have a single piece in my wardrobe in red, well maybe just the soles of my Louboutins (but even that sometimes bothers me).  The color is just too strong for me, it's a quite obvious and provocative color and I just prefer to dress in a more discrete and delicate way. But, on the other hand red is one of my favorite lipstick colors, I always have fun wearing it!

Flats or heels?
Heels after Flats, and flats after heels. I can't leave without both. There is a time for each.

Your next "must have" purchase?
An emerald ring

Most stylish city?
Venice, because it has its own, very particular, style. It gives unbelievable and unforgettable emotions: that is the combinations of colors, architecture and even smells. For me style is something that should be unique, and Venice is definitely one of the most unique places in the world. It captures my thoughts, and changes them to go along with the rhythm of the town. 

When I was high school I wore?
Everything in black.

Yoga. I really love to do yoga very early in the morning, when everyone is sleeping - particularly the fashion world. So I have to get up when it is still dark. The atmosphere is so beautiful, it's quiet and intimate, it's the best time to be only with yourself. 

Favorite cocktail?
I mix fresh juices; apple, beetroot, carrot and banana or just green apple and celery.
...No alcohol?
No. Some people get crazy about alcohol, but I'm crazy about fruit! Fresh squeezed juice is all I need to be happy and healthy - and I'm able to drink more than a really good professional alcoholic drinker could! 

Favorite vacation spot?
The islands near Thailand, it is gorgeous there! For me they have a great combination of the beauty of nature, spas, fruits, yoga and as much isolation as you want. 

Currently reading?
Romain Gary’s The Life Before Us

Favorite movies?
“8 1/2,” “Bonnie and Clyde” and “La Dolce Vita”

Favorite fashion magazine?
Distill. It showcases the best content of many great fashion and style magazines. Most of the time I agree with the selection. I also appreciate how it is presented in a clear and sophisticated way. 

Favorite place to search for inspiration?
Le Marche aux Puces. All of the old objects there with such long lives behind them are very intriguing for me. I am a buyer, so I am always looking for something different and I love the combination of old and modern. 

I spend my weekends?


On the Street......Denim Pants, Sydney

I love the idea of denim pants - especially if they are as well done as these.

On the Street......Color Steps, Lower East Side

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

On the Street...... A Walk in the Park, Part 2, Paris

Sao Paulo Party Tonight

Well, the little get together in Melbourne was so fun (thanks Melbourne!) that I'm having another little informal party-ish event here in Sao Paulo tonight.

It will be at Nonno Ruggero, a restaurant on the ground floor at Cidade Jardim.

Open bar with DJ @ 7pm

What has been really great, is at these parties there is such a wonderfully diverse mix of styles and people. Melbourne was great because we had tailored guys, vintage ladies, fashion forwarders, denim divas... a real mix in a very casual atmosphere.

I hope you can make it!

On the Street......Sixth Ave., NYC

I love that girls in NYC wear cute little dresses to ride their bikes.

Hurry up Summer!

Monday, May 18, 2009

On the Street......Fourth St., NYC

It's great to be back in New York. I love shooting here.

I leave today for São Paulo.

On the Street......Steal Her Style, NYC

Friday, May 15, 2009

On the Street......Walk in the Park, Paris

On the Street......Couple of Cool, Milano

Thursday, May 14, 2009

On the Street......Young Sydney, Sydney

I don't know if this shot is from the fashion editor, the photographer or the dad in me. This young lady just looked so charming with her cute but quiet style that I had to take the shot. Maybe it is as simple as I just wanted to share a portrait of a very cool kid from Sydney.

On the Street......At the Cafe, Paris

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

On the Street...... Rolled Shorts, NYC

This weekend I was shooting a story for Style Piccoli using my kids and a few of their friends as models. I shot Isabel as if she was just learning photography, and shot what she would see around a flea market in NYC. The shots came out great, and I will post more when the issue comes out in June-ish.

However, while we were shooting we ran into this young man with rolled shorts.

Rolled shorts - it brings up a question. What is "fashion" versus what is "style?"

Rolled shorts could easily become a trend or fashion, but unless everyone is doing it (I guess in this case) it would be considered personal style.

Whichever it is, I think it looks great but I'm just not a rolled shorts guy. It is not in my personal style catalog - however if rolled shorts became fashionable I would probably consider them more carefully.

As I write this I am realizing that great personal style is made up of a certain percentage of "always" items and methods, mixed with a certain percentage of "sometimes" fashions, and a certain percentage of "nevers".

ummm, deep thoughts.

On the Street......Eva, Milano

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

On the Street......Waiting for Summer, Paris

I was reviewing my archives yesterday to look for ideas on what I wanted to wear this Spring/Summer. I found this shot of my friend Garth wearing a brown cotton windbreaker, I love the shot and realized I hadn't posted it last Summer (so here it is!).

I love the shape of the jacket, but even more I love the idea of wearing brown this Summer. That shade of brown against tanned skin, and layered with sun-faded shades of pink or purple or even orange could be very cool. I love when I can use my own photos in such a practical way.

On the Street......The Designed Cover-up, Sydney

As Americans we're often overly practical. To that end the big t-shirt has become the "cover-up" for most beach excursions. I was very happy to see the young ladies around Sydney sporting more thoughtfully designed cover-ups. My guess is it's a cultural thing - that they don't "go to the beach" like we do. I think in Sydney it is more like how we "go to the gym" on a Saturday or after work - just another thing to do during a busy day in paradise.

PS. A few of you commented that the light in Australia seems very different. You're right. Actually, it is not that different - but since they are going into Winter the sun is much lower in the sky as opposed to in the Summer when it is very high and has a harsh shadowing effect. That's why I could take a midday beach shot without all of the hard light reflecting off of the sand. Anyway, I don't know if you needed to know that, but if I am in Sydney or Melbourne every April for the next few years you will know why.

Monday, May 11, 2009

On the Street......Vintage Coat, Sydney

On the Street......Sweater Shorts, Sydney

Sydney weather at this time of year is just like New York. Cool mornings, warm afternoons, and cool evenings - layering like this is a great option. Even without the sweater the look still feels refined with the shirt buttoned-up like that.

Friday, May 08, 2009

On the Street.....Winter Scarf, Summer Style, Sydney

On the Street......Street Peeper, Sydney

Thursday, May 07, 2009

On the Street......Surface Texture in Black, Sydney

Wednesday, May 06, 2009

On the Street......Color Story, Sydney

I don't know what this means from a fashion perspective, but looking at the crazy confluence of colors alone is totally inspirational to me.

Monday, May 04, 2009

On the Street......Bondi Beach, Sydney

Saturday, May 02, 2009

Return to Melbourne!

I am returning Sunday to Melbourne for a project I'll be shooting next week.

I would love to meet some of my Melbourne readers.

We will be having a very non-organized party at Cutler & Co in Fitzroy around 8pm tomorrow night.

If you are in the neighborhood please stop by.

Sunday May 3rd, 8pm
Cutler & Co Bar
55-57 Gertrude Street

PS. I will be back for parties in both cities later this year for my book launch.

Friday, May 01, 2009

On the Street......Sydney Winter, Sydney

On the Street......Walking Shorts, Sydney

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